Nicolas rieussec как установить второй часовой пояс

Review: Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

The last two pieces in the Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec collection offer a dial variation from the steel, silver version seen at SIHH 2018. This time, the unusual chronograph also comes in precious metal – 18 k red gold. Since the combination of the grey dial and the red gold is appealing, I decided to give slightly more attention to the Ref. 119964. With the note, that the steel version looks and feels exactly the same, but is manufactured in non-precious metal.

Two new grey dial brings, in my opinion, a touch of modernism. While the older version with the white dial looks absolutely gorgeous and classical, it was a very traditional implementation of the Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph design.

A history, not to be forgotten

Nicolas Rieussec patented in 1821 a precise time measuring device. It gave it the name of “chronographe“! A few years later, Rieussec patents a new version. The 1838’s variant was simpler and it was easier to use. More about Nicolas Rieussec in this Wikipedia article.

Montblanc released the first Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph in 2008. In 2012, the watch received the third hand, as a second-time-zone.

Montblanc from the top to bottom

Or better said from the case to crown…

The polished case measures a large 44.8mm. The height is also generous – 15.02mm. The case has to deal with the large Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB R200. As before, the side step on the lugs is present.

The slightly raised bezel is curved, featuring a domed sapphire. The warm vintage note of the bombe case, bezel and crystal is elegant and pleasant.

The crown, my favourite part of the exterior holds the traditional black and white Montblanc emblem. On the other side, the chrono pusher makes a clear statement – “I am important, I am the only one…“, without being brutal or vulgar.

Not your usual chrono

The dial of the Nicolas Rieussec chrono is a playful collection of finishes in multi-level surfaces. The guilloché pattern surrounds the various displays present on the dial.

The time’s display uses a stepped sub-dial with printed numerals. The minutes’ outer track uses dots as indexes. The hour and the second time zone have two sets of indexes: a set of golden Arabic numerals and a set of printed dots on sunken sub-dial’s beveling. The day/night indication is smartly presented through an aperture in the 9’clock position.

The dial holds on the upper side of the Montblanc name.

Like all the other elements of the dial, the date indication at 6 o’clock received well-deserved attention. Maybe the choice of black on white is debatable. Certain is that the legibility is excellent. The date is adorned with an exquisite frame. The fixation is done in the dial disk and not above it, using two screws. I find this particular element to have an undoubtful sophistication.

The chronometric function of the Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph is ingeniously implemented. Instead of using hands on a fixed dial, the chrono uses two rotating discs. The indication is realised by a single raised rhombus shape placed between the two discs. The right disk is responsible for the 30 minutes counter. Note the cool mirror finish on the surfaces of the chrono’s three-dimensional rhombus.

On both discs, two sets of rail tracks are used for increased legibility. The circular brush of the domed discs makes a charming contrast with the central, mirror polished weights.

The dial is a splendour of details. The good general legibility is added to a balanced combination of colours and shapes. Montblanc made no mistake in this one.

In a heart bit

The Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB R200 is, as the name suggests, manufacture in-house. And this since 2007.

This automatic movement is used in all Nicolas Rieussec watches, with specific variations. The column wheel and vertical clutch movement beats at 28’800vph. The 4Hz Gyromax spring is able to squeeze 72 hours of power reserve from the two barrels design.

The movement is lavishly decorated, using the typical Haute-Horlogerie finishes: Côtes de Genève on the bridges and on the rotor weight, bevelled and polished edges and jewels’ sink, blue screws and an attent design. The skeletonised rotor is adorned with the Montblanc star.

Attention to details

The unusual chrono display and the elegant execution make the Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph a tempting proposal. It looks good in steel, even better in gold (for me, at least…)! The sum of the dial elements, nimbly implemented using a two-century-old patent and the beauty of the movement bring a je ne sais quoi to the watch. One cannot simply ignore it. And in my opinion, you can only love it.

I have to admit, that playing with the chrono was an unusual experience. The odd position of the chrono-pusher is intended to be used with the right hand’s thumb. I had always the urge to keep the watch on the right side using the index and middle finger – for precision and stability. I find it to be ok, un-obstructive for the reading. The rotating discs are mesmerising and bring a fun note to the entire experience.

The watch feels good on the wrist. Very good! Its weight is ok for someone used to heavier pieces. A person who only wears titanium cased quartz might find it unbearable. But I know it is not the case of the usual watch lover/collector.

As a conclusion: an exceptionally built watch with an elegant and exquisite presentation powered by a handsome movement. And let’s not forget about the 500 hours test routine that assures the quality and the chronometry of the watch (marked also on the caseback). A good choice for any collector.

Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph

Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Reference 119964 in gold and Reference 119954 in steel.

Movement Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB R200

Type of movement

• Mechanical movement with automatic winding mechanism, chronograph and double barrel
• Chronograph Monopusher with column-wheel and vertical coupling

Dimensions

• Diameter = 31 mm; height = 8.46 mm

Number of components

Number of rubies

Power Reserve

• Approx. 72 hours

Balance

• Screw balance, diameter = 9.7 mm; moment of inertia = 12 mgcm²

Frequency

• 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)

Hairspring

• Flat

Plate

• Rhodium-coated with circular graining

Bridges

• Rhodium-coated with “Côtes de Genève”

Going train

• Special toothing for more efficient power transmission

Displays

• Off-centred hour- and minute hands, second-time-zone on the same axis as the hour- and minute-hands with day/night display
• Date window at 6 o’clock
• 60 elapsed-second and 30 elapsed-minute counters on rotating discs with central motionless hand

Special Feature

• Travel function with rapid reset of hour-hand and date display either forward or backward

Habillage

Case

• 18 K red gold, polished case – Reference 119964
• Stainless steel, polished case – Reference 119954

Crystal

• Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

Back

• 18 K red gold with inset pane of sapphire crystal – Reference 119964
• Stainless steel with inset pane of sapphire crystal – Reference 119954

Dimensions

• Diameter = 44.8 mm ; Height = 15.02 mm

Watertightness

• 3 bar (30 m)

Crown

• 18 K red gold with Montblanc emblem – Reference 119964
• Stainless steel with Montblanc emblem – Reference 119954

Pusher

• Monopusher chronograph at 8 o’clock

Dial

• Anthracite with guilloché pattern in places,
• domed hour-circle with azuré decoration in the centre and red gold-coloured Arabic numerals,
• filet sauté guilloché around the dial, red gold-coated leaf hour- and minute-hands,
• rhodium-coated, respectively, blued skeletonized second-time zone-hand,
• red gold-coated, respectively, rhodium-coated titanium domed chronograph counters with satin-finishing

Wristband Grey Sfumato alligator-skin strap from Richemont Pelletteria in Florence, Italy with 18 K red gold pin buckle, or stainless steel triple-folding clasp for the steel version.

Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500

For more information visit the Montblanc Website.

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Nicolas rieussec как установить второй часовой пояс

REVIEW: Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours Chronograph

T he Nicolas Rieussec collection pays tribute to the French Watchmaker Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec who was a pioneer in the field of chronographs.

The design of the collection was inspired by the original chronograph Rieussec invented in 1821. Similar to his invention, these chronographs use rotating discs with motionless hands. And Montblanc loaned us the Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours Chronograph, which was introduced at SIHH last year, for a two-week-long test. Below I will show you hands-on images, as well as give you our thoughts on the watch.

Rieussec Chronograph 1821

The Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours Chronograph collection has three different variations: stainless steel, 18K red gold, and platinum (limited to 28 pieces). The red gold and platinum models both come with a silver-colored dial and the steel model (which we tested), comes with an anthracite/gray dial.

The Dial

The anthracite gray dial features a beautiful Grain d`Orges guilloche pattern that contrasts nicely with the silver off-center dial and the gray subsidiary dials. The time is displayed via a large off-center dial. Hours are shown via a disc that displays Arabic numerals through a large aperture at the top of the dial. Minutes are displayed via a centrally mounted skeletonized hand. At first, it was difficult to read the time, at a glance, but after a few days, it became second nature.

A wide aperture at 12 o’clock shows laser cut-out numerals Arabic numerals 1 through 12, with an arrow the indicates which hour it is. The twelve-hour disc turns above another disc below that represents day/night, and which is half blue and half black. Black (visible between 6 am and 6 pm) represents day and blue represents night. The twelve-hour disc rotates continually, while the day/night disc turns in intervals, at variable speeds to display day/night through the cut-out numerals.

Using different colors to represent day and night was definitely a good idea, however, whether the choice to use black for a day and blue for the night is a good idea, is debatable. Logic would suggest that the opposite makes more sense. Nonetheless, this integrated day/night mechanism is unique, complicated, and has been patented by Montblanc.

Like on the original Nicolas Rieussec chronograph from 1821, the chronograph counters of this timepiece have motionless hands and rotating discs to count 30-minutes and 60-seconds. The hands are blued and are secured by a bridge. The bridge has two visible rubies, 4 small silver screws, and 2 large blued screws. Small semi-circle apertures at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively, display the day and date.

The Case

The stainless steel case is fully polished and measures 43 mm in diameter by 15.20 mm in height, with a length of 51 mm and with a lug width of 22 mm. The fluted steel crown has been polished and is emblazoned with black and white mother-of-pearl inlaid Montblanc logo. The crown is non-locking and is large enough to easily grip — but without digging into your wrist. The case is beefy, but the lugs are nicely curved so as to provide a comfortable fit.

The stainless steel bezel has been polished and is fixed in place. A small recessed corrector button on the case flank, at 10 o’clock, controls the day/date (requires a small pin to adjust). Located at 8 o’clock is the flat mono-pusher which controls the chronograph start-stop-reset functions (all in one button). The sapphire crystal is slightly domed, with a double anti-glare coating. Screwed caseback with transparent sapphire crystal reveals the finely finished movement. A cool feature, visible through the caseback, is a rear power reserve indicator.

The Movement

The Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours Chronograph is powered by automatic caliber MB R220, which is based on the original Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec movement — MB200. It features a mono-pusher chronograph, with a column wheel and vertical disc clutch. This configuration allows you to control the start, stop and reset functions all from one push-piece. And in our experience, the pusher actuation was about as smooth as it gets, with no harsh or firm feeling when activating, stopping, or resetting the chronograph.

A balance is free-sprung, which is preferable to a regulated balance because it is easier for a watchmaker to adjust the rate and amplitude. The balance wheel is particularly large at 9.70 mm, which typically helps improve accuracy. The wheel train with special toothing for more efficient power transmission. Flat hairspring. Blued screws. There are 342 components, 42 of which are jewels. Twin barrels provide a maximum 72-hour power reserve.

Additional Details

The Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours Chrono comes on a black alligator leather strap with a triple folding clasp. Water-resistance is 30 meters. Retail is $13,900 (stainless steel – 108790), $34,700 (red gold – 108789), $62,600 (platinum – 108788). The Rising Hours collection is not currently available for sale on Montblanc.com, however, the Nicolas Rieussec Automatic Chronograph is ($10,700) – you get everything that the rising hours watch comes with, except for the wandering hours, all for $3,200 less.

Verdict

The Rising Hours chronograph has a number of unique features that set it apart from your typical chronograph. A fabulous movement with a mono-pusher column-wheel and vertical clutch. Furthermore, the wandering hours display with patented day/night indication is a unique complication you won’t find anywhere else.

Nicolas rieussec как установить второй часовой пояс

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Automatic Watch Review

This watch review is going to be a bit different than how I usually do them. Why? Because shortly before the review I was actually able to visit the manufacture making the movements of this watch. That experience offered me some special insight that allowed me to understand this timepiece more.

I know there is a lot of talk on the “manufacture” movement. In fact, a recent panel discussion I had with fellow watch expert journalists allowed me to realize that there is no strict definition of “watch manufacture” or “manufacture movement.” This definitional ambiguity hurts my ability to explain things properly, but let it be said that Montblanc makes the movement in each of the Nicolas Rieussec watches themselves. Of course there is some help from suppliers, but this is about as “in-house” a job as most people want it to be. My understanding is that the components of the movements are made at the Valfleurier facility in Buttes Switzerland. The pieces are then sent to Montblanc Le Locle for assembly and testing.

What fascinated me most about the Montblanc manufacture in Le Locle Switzerland was just how modern it was. I mean it is true that many watch manufactures feel like you are in some combo of a hospital and science lab, but the machinery available to the watch makers at the Le Locle facility was impressive. I have a larger feature length article on this topic that will come out soon – but in short, when it comes to the Nicolas Rieussec line of timepieces, Montblanc relies on a clever environment that combines the human approach of watch makers with the precision assistance of machines.

A few example of this synergy between man (or woman) and machine? Here are two. One of the images here is of a machine that robotically applies lubricant to designated spots in a watch. Such lubricant must be precisely applied with an exact amount. The more consistently applied the better. While a human assembles the movement, a robot is used to apply the lubricant better and with more precision in terms of amount than any human can do consistently. Another example is a machine that allows a watch maker to adjust the screws on a balance wheel and test the accuracy of the rate in real time. Basically the machine combines a magnifier, computer controlled screw driver, and a watch movement rate tester in one. While it is operated by a person, the machine makes it easy to adjust a traditional weighted balance wheel to its most precise weight distribution in the escapement assembly.

One of my favorite images here that illustrates the culture of the manufacture is the image of the watch tools with the computer mouse. If you look closely you’ll also notice the presence of a Montblanc pen. Each work station gives watchmakers a computer terminal as well as watch making tools. While I have seen this before, it certainly isn’t common.

With their movements all made in Switzerland by Montblanc, the Nicolas Rieussec collection currently consists of a few watches. My main focus here is on the Automatic Chronograph that also has a GMT and date complication (that I tested). The movement is known as the R200. The two manually wound variants (with slightly different functions) are the R100, R110, and R120 (a limited edition that used a silicium escapement). I am not going to go overboard with technical details, but the movements represent an interesting medium between the ultra-high end, and mass manufactured pieces.

The R200 has a lot of impressive features on paper. Notable to the watch nerd is that it has a column wheel based chronograph that uses a vertical clutch. These features offer more durability and precision when using the chronograph. There are very few European chronographs that feature both of these features. I should also note that some of Seiko’s higher-end chronograph movements also feature column wheels and vertical clutches, as do pieces by brands such as Patek Philippe and (the former) Daniel Roth. Why all the focus on the chronograph? Well that is the new signature complication of Montblanc. The brand latched on to the complication for good reason (as well as to Mr. Nicolas Rieussec). “Chronograph” literally means “time writer.” What is Montblanc known for? Yes, making pens. Sound too good to be true to have a watch in your collection that is a “time writer?” So the emphasis on this complication make perfect sense. Nicolas Rieussec is guy credited with “inventing the chronograph.” Montblanc adopted him.

A while ago Rieussec created a device that looks like an early seismograph. It was a clock with a stop and start function that pulled a disc of paper along a smaller writing tip. This device was the first known “chronograph.” It was meant to measure time in horse races and actually “wrote.” The look of the chronograph on the watch is taken from this early device. Montblanc keeps replicas of them around the manufacture for inspiration. Each Nicolas Rieussec watch uses two discs that move along stationary hands to show the chronograph time (up to 30 minutes). These are also monopusher chronographs that use a single pusher to cycle through “start, stop, and reset” functions for the chronograph. The pusher is large, easy to find, and placed at the 5 o’clock position on the watch. Don’t miss the exposed synthetic palette rubies exposed on the top of the chronograph dials.

This chronograph style is the signature look of the Nicolas Rieussec collection. The time is displayed on an off-centered dial at the top of the face. While small, Montblanc really helped that dial standout and be legible. It uses that fancy looking font that you’ll find on most Montblanc Star watches. I really do love that font.

On the manually-wound versions of the Nicolas Rieussec, the time dial has a third hand used for the date. On the automatic, the third had is GMT hand. Working just like you would assume, the main time hour hand can be independently adjusted to alter the time when moving through time zones when traveling. To the left of the dial is a day/night indicator linked to the GMT hand. This useful complication help you know if it is day or night on your second timezone given that it is displayed on the 12, versus 24 hour scale. Who’d a though this would turn out to be such a useful travel watch? Both time zones share the minute hand. I was generally impressed by the GMT functionality of the watch and feels that the R200 movement’s use of the third hand is better than having it be a date indicator.

While the left of the dial has the day/night indicator, the right has a date wheel. For symmetry Montblanc uses a window of a similar shape, but I don’t much care for “open” date windows. It also does not look spectacular with the upper and lower date being partially under the dial – though that does actually help with keeping your focus on the actual date. While the windows that flank the time dial look nice, I have a feeling Montblanc might work to revise or polish the design in future generations of the watch.

Coming in a few tones, the dial of the Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec is an interesting creature. It took me a while to warm up to it, but I am enjoying the design. While totally different than other collection Montblanc offers, the Nicolas Rieussec does share the brand’s DNA nicely. Of course the crown has that lovely white Montblanc star, and the case is very much inspired by the Star collection. To create visual depth, the power part of the dial is partially “eclipsed” by a plate of Geneva stripe polished metal – plus, the dial looks to be made up of a few layers. The chronograph dials are covered with a sort of wish-bone like bridge that uses blued steel screws (blued steel is also used for some of the hands). This is a nice element, but I had one suggestion for Montblanc. While this might increase the cost a bit, I think it would be really welcome. The bridge is made from stamped steel. What if it could be made from milled and hand-polished steel? It would provide a wonderful visual cue and reminder that this is a hand-assembled watch. Perhaps in the future.

Let’s visit the R200 movement again. It is an automatic version of the R100 with a few addition complications (as mentioned above). You can see the rotor placed over the movement, with the small Montblanc star shaped hole that is designed to pass right over the column wheel opening window. The movement has two mainspring barrels for a power reserve of 72 hours. The movement operates at 28,800bmp and can be adjusted to be very accurate. I saw a movement at the manufacture that was adjusted to operate within less than one second of deviation a day. I love that the movement combines modern technology and traditionalism. Like I said, it uses a free-weighted balance spring and column wheel, enjoys helps from highly sophisticated machinery in its assembly and manufacture.

The Nicolas Rieussec watch case is 43mm wide and 14.8mm tall. It isn’t a small watch, but it does wear like a medium one. Its height is visually reduced by the highly curved lugs. Front and rear crystal are sapphire (with the front crystal having double AR coating), while it is water resistant to 30 meters.

Montblanc has assured me that their dedication to the Nicolas Rieussec collection is intense. The collection will receive more attention in the future, which is aided by the fact that the watch is a marketing success. One of the reasons for this is the pricing. While the watches aren’t cheap they are more reasonable that you’d expect. The pieces come in gold, platinum, and steel. The gold models are in the $30,000 range. Not cheap, but Montblanc isn’t asking for $50,000. Actually, their platinum version is about $50,000 – which in the luxury market isn’t that much for a platinum watch. In steel the watch retails for about $9,200. It comes in a steel bracelet or an alligator strap (black or brown). I am told that soon Montblanc will develop a brand new metal bracelet for the Nicolas Rieussec collection.

Overall these are enjoyable watches. The Montblanc identity is a major positive, and I enjoy the visual design and functionality of the R200 movement. While unique in its looks, this is an easy watch to wear daily. Montblanc isn’t making a mere collector’s piece here. Designed to prevent boredom but maintain utility the Nicolas Rieussec watch collection is intended for all types of watch lovers to worn daily.

Часы Montblanc. Nicolas Rieussec. Мнение. Фото. Цены

Совсем недавно я встречался с представителями марки Montblanc в Мюнхене посмотреть часы и узнать больше о идеологии компании. Основной интерес, в плане часов, был посмотреть поближе, узнать больше и сделать фотографии серии Nicolas Rieussec. Пожалуй эта серия одна из самых интересных серий марки Montblanc.Механизм в часах Nicolas Rieussec полностью разработан Montblanc, некоторые части конечно заказываются у поставщиков, но в любом случае механизм в Nicolas Rieussec можно смело назвать “собственным калибром”, что конечно является большой похвалой.

Несколько слов о марке Montblanc в целом. Бренд Montblanc всем прекрасно известен своими исключительными пишущими инструментами, мужскими запонками и кожаными изделиями. Часами занялась марка совсем недавно, используя сначала полностью механизмы ETA. Сейчас компания разрабатывает и свои механизмы. Очень неплохо! Несмотря на это, Montblanc, в какой-то степени, остается в небольшой тени у покупателя. Но я абсолютно уверен, что ситуация в скором кардинально изменится. В Китае часы Montblanc очень любимы, а вот в Европе часы этой марки пока только набирают обороты и популярность (о чем говорят очень неплохие цифры продаж за последние пару лет, где большой процент продаж приходится именно на серию Nicolas Rieussec). Цены на часы, по сравнению с конкурентами, не так велики, что с большой вероятностью может измениться.

На фото ниже начиная слева: Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Open Open Home Time (калибр R210), Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Automatic с антрацитовым циферблатом (калибр R200), Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Automatic с серябрянным циферблатом (калибр R200)

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Open Open Home Time (калибр R210)

В середине: Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Automatic с антрацитовым циферблатом (калибр R200)

Корпус 43 мм. Часы не маленькие, но носятся как средне-размерные.

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Automatic с серябрянным циферблатом (калибр R200)

Что еще хочется отметить про серию Nicolas Rieussec, по вашему желанию Montblanc с удовольствием модифицирует любую модель Nicolas Rieussec.

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Automatic доступны в золоте, платине и стали. Цены начинаются с 8.290 евро (сталь), золотая модель обойдется в районе 26.000 евро.

В заключении хочется сказать, что часы подходят отлично, как ежедневные часы, даже с таким интересным и своеобразным дизайном. Также мне очень понравился визуальный дизайн и функциональность механизма R200 и R210. Я уверен, что этих часов ждет продолжительный успех.

При встрече с Montblanc я также не мог ни сделать несколько фотографий эксклюзивных пишущих инструментов и мужских запонок. Но об этом в следующий раз.